New route just to the left of “you shall not pass” (red)

The first bolt is a little high but its juggy, if you’re unsure about it bring a stick clip.

Enjoy technical crimping that turns on at the bulge.

Route is just to the left of Smaug 5.10D, labeled project in the new guide book

Start on techy sidepulls, crimps and underclings on a slightly off vertical wall until you reach a tricky bulge.

Start on easy ground under the little roof, then onto the vertical face above. Delicate climbing leads to a more strenuous series of moves below the ledge. After the ledge, more physical moves will get you to the anchor.

**Route 8 in the new guidebook

The rightmost line on the Hobbitwall. Another fun little line that ends too quickly.  It needs one final polish once I give it a dedicated anchor. Using the anchor for Breakfast works well for now.

Start in the deep corner and work your way straight up. Some off-widthing and stemming will make this feel true to the grade. (Let me know if I am off on the grade ) There is a big chalkstone that's wedged into the chimney. I worked at it for hours with a 5 ft pry bar, hammers, kicking, and screaming. It won't come out, but something to look out for over the years.  As always with new routes, helmets on and watch for loose rock. Climb on.